Wagamama (Great Marlborough St, Soho)

in 1992 Alan Yau not only put Japanese noodle soup on the map, but set the tone for affordable, healthy and inventive excellent-quality food in stylish but accessible spaces. Shared tables might not be to everyone's taste, but well into the 21st century Wagamama still tastes good, with branches across the UK and further afield. This flagship Great Marlborough St branch, opened in May 2015 following the closure of the nearby Lexington St outlet, takes the Wagamama design to a new level and is dominated by one long, stylish bar, plus tables at the back. Recommended favorites include ginger chicken udon, ebi kare lomen (ramen noodles and prawns in spicy coconut soup) and chilli ramen, with much on the menu for vegetarians. And this branch introduces breakfast ramen and bacon, lettuce and tomato buns. As ever, service is efficient, friendly and quick, but comes with a warning: dishes are served when they are kitchen-ready, regardless of whether everyone at your table has something in front of them. Yau sold Wagamama in 1998, but it continues to thrive, even if certain dips in quality (outsourcing of sauces, change in noodly quality etc) do not quite gel with Yau's original vision. Other London branches include Camden Town, Royal Festival Hall (Southbank), Holborn, Victoria, Wigmore St, Old St and Spitalfields. Now closed is the first ever Wagamama (in Streatham St in Bloomsbury).